Stones Throw
On a recent visit to San Francisco, I dined at Stones Throw, the newest restaurant in the Russian Hill neighborhood. Already a major hit with the locals, I was looking forward to trying out their California-American driven menu.
Located in the former Luella space, the management had a fairly tough act to follow. However, with Chef Jason Halverson at the helm and a team of stellar talent from Michael Mina and SPQR, the entire evening was filled with imaginative dishes and gracious professionalism.
The playful Puffed Potato & Egg and refreshing Crispy Tomato Cream Wafers were a fun way to start the meal. The Squid Ink Conchiglie was easily one of the best pasta dishes I've had here, and that's a major accomplishment in a city filled with amazing pasta. The spicy capers added a crucial punchiness, which fired up the palate to ecstatic heights.
The Octopus Okonomiyaki was just mind-blowing. Laced with bacon dashi and spicy turnips, the tender octopus was grilled to smoky perfection. The accompanying seafood pancake came with three different condiments, which only added more allure to the unique presentation.
As for entrees, the Crispy 38 North Duck Breast & Crispy Taquito was excellent. For vegetarians, the Toad in the Hole Lasagna with mushroom duxelles, asparagus, green garlic and confit egg yolk was a sublime, richly layered option.
The lovely folks at Stones Throw kindly shared some extra treats, including the highly creative Not Your Grandma's Apple Pie — a deconstructed version of the classic dessert. Spiced maple panna cotta melded perfectly with apple granita, diced apple and cigar wafer. The textures were modern and different, yet the flavors remained comfortingly familiar.
Not surprisingly, the Peanut Butter & Jelly Donuts were a big hit. Fluffy pillows of fried dough nestled among tiny mounds of peanut butter cream and grape jelly. We were already full, but it was difficult to resist this sweet temptation. In the end, we succumbed and gave in wholeheartedly.
To make a reservation, go to stonesthrowsf.com.
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