Fashion lovers need to glide over to the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the de Young Museum. Even if you're not in the area I'd suggest a haute couture pilgrimmage to SF. Spanning 40 years (1962 to 2002), the 125+ couture ensembles from the visionary master will knock the Louboutins off any fashionista.
Marina Schiano in Evening Gown. Fall-Winter 1970. © The Estate of Jeanloup Sieff
The dazzling exhibit is quite comprehensive - be prepared to return for a second or third viewing. There are sketches, videos, accessories, and even Lesage embroidery on display. Some pieces evoked the spirit of Chanel, while others were inspired by nature and art (Mondrian, Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, etc.)
Cocktail Dress (tribute to Mondrian), Fall-Winter 1965. Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent. Photo: Alexandre Guirkinger
With iconic muses like Nan Kempner (SF native, naturally) and Catherine Deneuve for inspiration, Saint Laurent also had a vast interest in foreign culture. Along with inventing a female version of the tuxedo (le smoking), pea coat, pantsuit, and safari jacket, he had collections that drew heavily from the African, Chinese, Russian, and Japanese cultures.
Bridal Gown, Spring-Summer 1999. Bridal wreath, bracelet and anklet bracelet of rose and leaves by Lemarié. Train in silk gazar by Gandini. Model: Laetitia Casta. Courtesy Foundation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent.
Aside from his sheer genius, the main thing that touched me is that Saint Laurent was such a romantic poet. He really is a true artist. His extremely sensitive soul, coupled with his lonely imagination, has resulted in one of the most inimitable, prolific, and revered careers in haute couture.
Credit: Andrew Rau; Courtesy of Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent.
Shown earlier at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the de Young will be the only U.S. show. It runs through April 5, 2009.
Golden Gate Park
50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive
San Francisco, CA 94118
www.famsf.org/deyoung
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